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Full, deep red. Black raspberry, blackberry, minerals, spices and a hint of smoked meat on the nose. Soft and silky, but with lovely insidious acidity. This has impressive concentration, flesh and length. Dugat owns one parcel of 60+-year-old vines spread across two lieux-dit.
Bright, saturated ruby-red. Perfumed, detailed aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and violet. Creamy black fruit and crushed stone flavors are energized and lifted by underlying minerality and an inner-mouth floral character. This very concentrated wine carries impressively on the very long, detailed, chocolatey finish.
The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle impresses for its feminine, gracious personality. Here the fruit is a bit more red-tone, whole floral notes are quite prominent, even though Dugat used fewer whole clusters here (35-40%) than he did in many of his other wines. Silky tannins support the persistent, nuanced finish. This is Gevrey with a Chambolle accent.
The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques is reduced to just two barrels this year, from vines located just behind Bernard Dugat’s house, and includes around 75% whole cluster fruit. It has a beguiling, floral bouquet with dried violet petals infusing the lush dark cherry and cassis fruit that is extremely well defined and carries the oak withease. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. This is a dense Gevrey but the acidity is nicely pointed and slices through the thickly layered dark berry fruit on the finish that springs a spicy tail to keep you on your toes. There is palpable energy here – superb.
(from vines between 50 and 87 years of age) Deep, bright ruby-red. Cassis and minerals on the nose. Juicy, bright and sharply delineated, with good penetration and strength to the pure flavors of black fruits and dark chocolate. At once powerful and fruity. Finishes with firm but well-buffered tannins. A great village wine in the making.
The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is raised entirely in new oak and includes less whole cluster in order to retain the femininity of the cru. It has a well-defined, mineral rich bouquet that remains tight at the moment, refusing to acquiesce in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine, quite succulent tannins, good acidity, a gentle grip and impressive build towards the structured blackberry and blueberry-driven finish. Very good tension here and in synch with the fruit, this Charmes-Chambertin should age well over the next 20 years.
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