Domaine Hoffmann-Jayer Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2017
NT$ 2,200Color Brilliant ruby
Aromatic Crisp, fresh red fruits with a chalky note
Palate Fresh linear fruit initially, medium weight on the middle palate with a smooth, subtle finish.
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Color Brilliant ruby
Aromatic Crisp, fresh red fruits with a chalky note
Palate Fresh linear fruit initially, medium weight on the middle palate with a smooth, subtle finish.
A discreet but not invisible application of oak surrounds an ultra-spicy, ripe and agreeably fresh nose that is comprised by a beautiful array of black berries, plum and exotic Asian tea scents. In much the same fashion as the 2013 version the big-bodied flavors are robust, muscular and mineral-inflected before terminating a palate coating finish that goes on and on. I should point out that while this is not especially complex at present my score envisions that much more will develop. I say this not only because there is excellent underlying material but also because this wine has a fabulous track record for developing beautifully over time.
Reduction once again dominates the fruit. Otherwise there is terrific intensity and punch to the muscular and mineral-inflected medium weight plus flavors that possess plenty of palate coating dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm tannic spine on the beautifully complex and persistent finish. This robust effort is going to necessitate at least 5 to 6 years of bottle age first and reward 10 to 12.
Good deep red. Dark berry liqueur, violet, mint and menthol on the youthfully medicinal nose. Sweet on entry, then quite fresh in the middle, with flavors of redcurrant, menthol and spices. Ultimately less sweet on the back half, finishing with serious tannins.
Here the restrained nose is more complex still with its spicy and earthy array of red and dark currant scents. The medium-bodied flavors are also richer and with better mid-palate concentration while delivering very fine persistence on the well-balanced finish. This is lovely and should reward 4 to 6 years of cellaring. This too would make a savvy choice for an upper level house red.
The Hautes Côtes de Nuits is a wine with remarkable aromatic intensity, emphasising coffee and red and black berries.
the airy coolness of the pretty red berry fruit aromas that precede the intense and energetic middleweight flavors. There is bright acidity underpinning the finale where a mild trace of dryness shortens the persistence.
Volnay wines combine distinction, nobleness, finesse, elegance and femininity. Connoisseurs will be able to appreciate their incomparable bouquet. These wines are some of the best examples of Côte de Beaune. Their colours vary from a soft vermilion to a deep ruby; they have delicate bouquets of red berries (raspberry and blackberry) and violet, soft to robust tannins and an elegant roundness. The best climats are Clos des Chênes, les Caillerets, les Champans, les Santenots and les Taillepieds, without forgetting the famous Clos des Ducs, a monopole cru owned by the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville.
92 points John Gilman
Outer quote mark The 2017 Rugiens from Céline Fontaine is another very, very good wine in the making, but it cannot match the optimal ripeness of the Clos des Chênes (due to the leaf roll disease) and is a bit more reticent out of the blocks as a result. The nose is a fine mix of black cherries, plums, a touch of currant leaf, dark chocolate, woodsmoke, a lovely base of soil, vanillin oak and a gentle topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, nascently complex and ripely tannic, with a good core, fine focus and grip and a long, balanced and youthful finish. This is not quite as sappy at the core as the other top reds in the cellar this year, but it will still be a lovely wine in the fullness of time. 2027-2060. Inner quote mark (1/2019)
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