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This is very ripe with a spicy and exuberantly fresh and attractive nose and plenty of mid-palate fat to buffer the racy acidity. This is a delicious effort and it offers much more body than one usually finds.
Volnay wines combine distinction, nobleness, finesse, elegance and femininity. Connoisseurs will be able to appreciate their incomparable bouquet. These wines are some of the best examples of Côte de Beaune. Their colours vary from a soft vermilion to a deep ruby; they have delicate bouquets of red berries (raspberry and blackberry) and violet, soft to robust tannins and an elegant roundness. The best climats are Clos des Chênes, les Caillerets, les Champans, les Santenots and les Taillepieds, without forgetting the famous Clos des Ducs, a monopole cru owned by the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville.
92 points John Gilman
Outer quote mark The 2017 Rugiens from Céline Fontaine is another very, very good wine in the making, but it cannot match the optimal ripeness of the Clos des Chênes (due to the leaf roll disease) and is a bit more reticent out of the blocks as a result. The nose is a fine mix of black cherries, plums, a touch of currant leaf, dark chocolate, woodsmoke, a lovely base of soil, vanillin oak and a gentle topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, nascently complex and ripely tannic, with a good core, fine focus and grip and a long, balanced and youthful finish. This is not quite as sappy at the core as the other top reds in the cellar this year, but it will still be a lovely wine in the fullness of time. 2027-2060. Inner quote mark (1/2019)
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Grande Montagne is a beautiful light straw yellow in the glass. In the nose fresh aromas of peach, white currant, pear and roasted almonds. On the palate, the wine is medium to full bodied, satiny and enveloping, with an expressive core of fruit and juicy acidity.
Light yellow. Ineffable aromas of lime leaf, white flowers, menthol and powdered stone. Silky and sweet but with lovely citrus lift to its crushed stone and mineral flavors. A juicy rather than thick 2015 with strong but harmonious acidity. Finishes saline and classically dry, with a light touch.
Background hints of smoke can be found on the cool, pure and restrained aromas of various white orchard fruit, lemongrass, Meyer lemon and soft spice wisps. There is excellent intensity to the racy, stony and beautifully detailed medium weight flavors that possess very fine depth and sneaky good length on the balanced finish. This is quite dry without being especially austere and should also age effortlessly.
Background hints of smoke can be found on the cool, pure and restrained aromas of various white orchard fruit, lemongrass, Meyer lemon and soft spice wisps. There is excellent intensity to the racy, stony and beautifully detailed medium weight flavors that possess very fine depth and sneaky good length on the balanced finish. This is quite dry without being especially austere and should also age effortlessly.
The Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les vergers del Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is a great white wine obtained by the Chardonnay grapes cultivated with biological methods. Characterized by a beautiful straw yellow color, it has a pleasant natural acidity and freshness. At nose, it develops fruited and flowered aromas, with hints of almonds and yellow fruits. In the palate it’s fresh and tasty and it’s perfect to drink in combination with risotto with vegetables, refined fish and crustaceans dishes and foie gras.
A restrained and ever-so-mildly exotic nose features notes of mandarin orange, melon, mango and floral nuances. The silky and highly seductive broad-shouldered yet refined flavors brim with mouth coating dry extract before terminating in a beautifully persistent, complex, balanced and harmonious finish. This is excellent and while it will clearly amply reward extended cellaring, it should be approachable after only 5-ish years.
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