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NT$ 8,500
《Wine Advocate》
The 2006 Barolo Cerequio opens with an utterly beguiling, captivating bouquet that leads to ripe red fruit, flowers, minerals and spices, all framed by sweet, silky tannins. Aromatics, textural elegance and freshness come together in this energetic, vivid Barolo. The finish is exceptionally long, pure and fresh, which suggests the wine will age gracefully for many years. The 2006 Barolo Cerequio is emerging as one of the finest wines in this important vintage. Simply put, it is awesome! Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.
My most recent visit with Roberto Voerzio and his son Davide in November 2009 was one of the most emotionally transcendental experiences I have ever had. When all was said and done, we tasted nearly forty wines spanning vintages 1988-2008, essentially covering this inspired producer’s entire career. That tasting will be the subject of an upcoming article on www.erobertparker.com, but readers can get a sneak peak at some of the 1989s and 1990s that are covered in this issue’s “What About Now.” I saw Roberto Voerzio in September 2006 and toured his vineyards just as the Nebbiolo harvest was about to begin. The fruit was absolutely gorgeous, and fortunately Voerzio was spared any significant damage from hail. Still, Voerzio was not entirely happy with his Barolo La Serra and Merlot, and opted not to bottle those wines. Always one of the first to harvest, Voerzio brought in his Nebbiolo in the first week of September. Vinification is fairly straightforward and takes place in stainless steel. Roberto Voerzio is one of the few producers of his generation who prefers steel for the malolactic fermentations as well. The wines were aged in French oak barrels. Beginning with his 2008s, Voerzio is aging his Barolos in a combination of roughly equal parts large cask and French oak, an approach he used for his early vintages through 1993. The first wines I have tasted from cask have been simply brilliant. It will be fascinating to see where Voerzio takes his craft from here.
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NT$ 13,300 – NT$ 20,600
Back in 2006, this estate farmed approximately 25 hectares of vines, and the Valpolicella was just beginning to feel its new celebrity status, thanks to a new generation of vintners (to come after Quintarelli and Dal Forno) showing impressive results. The 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta was born in a vintage that was not easy: It saw hail and above-average rainfall for much of the growing season. This expression opens to an inky dark appearance and heavy aromas of dried fruit, pressed blackberries and sun-dried prunes. There is a slightly sweeter side to this vintage (the residual sugar is up to ten grams per liter), and the mouthfeel offers enormous volume and richness. You get some jammy and raisiny fruit at the back. Like the 1990 vintage also tastes in this retrospective, this bottle from the 2006 vintage was slow to open and felt a bit closed initially. In fact, I gave it 94 points at that time. However, I recently opened a bottle of this same wine that I had in my cellar, and it was just stunning. It showed none of the shyness that I described above. Inspired by that second magical bottle, I went back and adjusted the drinking window and my score to the one you see here.
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NT$ 2,700
特殊風格的 BLANC DE BLANCS 在酒窖中陳釀超過十年的時間。柔和酸度,綿密細緻和諧平衡,是她的迷人之處。令人難以忘懷的香水味道讓品酒師大吃一驚。口感清新伴隨微妙淡淡白煙草香氣,帶有辛辣味、薄荷味、淡淡柑橘味和煙燻奶油特徵。口感風味雅致而新鮮,洋溢焦糖熱帶水果、檸檬皮氣息,接著清脆活潑的收尾。餘味悠長充滿細膩烘烤。釀造此款白中白香檳的Chardonnay葡萄摘採自 Côte des Blancs 和 de Reims的果實混合,因此香氣豐富集中之外更具非凡的層次感,同時亦保有清新美麗的氣息。
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TASTING NOTE
the Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru possesses an astonishing degree all the best qualities of white Burgundies: bright gold colour, rich and complex aromas recalling hazelnut and honey. Great depth and firmness but mellowness as well. Intense and persistent savour. This is a wine which needs time to reveal all its potential.
FOOD PAIRING
Bresse Chicken with cream, sweetbreads with morels, truffled foie gras, Comté or old Cantal. Great fish and Crustacean (Monkfish, Crayfish, Char, Langoustine), but also with a pan-fried veal. Serving temperature : 12 °C
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Sale!
NT$ 6,900 NT$ 5,520
這是款極度驚人且完美無瑕的Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud。由80歲的Grenache老藤(60%)及60歲的Mouvedre老藤(40%)釀造而成,並桶藏於600公升的中等橡木桶。每一口的Chateauneuf du Pape,都能感受到它迷人的優雅、純淨,並沉醉其中。與高貴的深李子色(紫色)相依隨的是與甘草、地中海灌木叢及香料盒等香味交織的樟腦、胡椒粉、甜黑莓及黑櫻桃果實芳香。這就是Chateauneuf du Pape 、Provence及southern Rhone的典型特徵。在紅黑色果實、香草及香料中,展現出它的層次分明卻又絲絲入扣。飽滿厚實的酒體,豐富濃鬱,卻又有出色的純淨感,感受到似多層的質地,並擁有令人讚嘆,長達60秒以上的餘韻。現在的Chateauneuf du Pape已展現出它在各面向的完美均衡,並頗富誘惑力,但等待15-20年將會有更傑出的表現。適飲期:2009-2029
95 – Wine Spectator
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(“almost 100% new oak) Deep red-ruby. Very ripe plum and chocolate aromas hint at surmaturite Sweet, suave and a bit high-toned in the mouth, with superripe flavors of crushed dark fruits and chocolate. Plenty of density and volume here but this seems almost exaggerated today. The lush tannins arrive late. This is 13.6% alcohol, with a pH of 3.65; the rest of these ’06s are between 3.48 and 3.55. Seems ready to bottle right now.
Stephen Tanzer, March 2008